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  • Article

    Dish

    That Brazilian Beat My friend Pete Selin recently explained to me that Houston is the opposite of New York City. "You know how they say New York is a great place to visit, but you wouldn't want to live there?" he asked. "Well, Houston is a great ...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on September 3, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Ducks greet you when you enter Bistro Cuisine (4925 West Alabama, 871-9722). But don't let that worry you. They're the ceramic kind and never likely to end up in the cassoulet. While Bistro Cuisine is proudly French, it's not going to convince you th...

    by Eric Lawlor on September 3, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    I don't own a car myself. I never have. But were all drive-throughs as good as Thai Racha (10085 Long Point, 464-7607), I'd seriously consider buying one. This restaurant, housed in what was once a Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet, offers what it calls ...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 27, 1998
  • Article

    Don't Worry, Be Happy - Our intrepid critic goes to the relaxed land of The Sundance Grill and gets some very good food

    We'd told The Sundance Grill to expect us at 8 o'clock, but driving down to Seabrook, we got hopelessly lost and arrived some 20 minutes late. This area having a long nautical tradition, we expected our temerity to cost us dearly. Maybe we'd be keelh...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 27, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Here's Another Bit of Texana Cookbooks have long since lived near the bottom of the literary food chain -- ironic, given their content. You're not likely to see their authors on Booknotes, discussing the significance of their tome with Ted on Nig...

    by Bob Ruggiero on August 27, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Seeing it from the street, you'd never guess that Otilia's (7710 Long Point, 681-7203) is a Mexican restaurant. That's because it's housed in what looks like a wooden chalet -- the kind you'd find in Germany's Black Forest. It takes some getting used...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 20, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Tossing Some Salad Around Look out, Souper Salad. There's a new posse in town offering up buffet-style health-conscious fare. The San Diego-based Sweet Tomatoes introduced its first Houston location off I-10, with a planned five to seven addition...

    by Bob Ruggiero on August 20, 1998
  • Article

    Setting a New Standard - Tasca, serious about its food and service, delivers excellence

    I'll try to be calm, but I can't promise I'll succeed because, in the past seven days, I've been to Tasca twice, and the experience both times.... Oh, what the hell! I might as well come right out and say it: The experience was extraordinary. My firs...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 20, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    I know there's a rock-and-roll heaven. I've been there. And I know there's a pizza heaven, too. I've been there, also. Want to find these pearly gates? Well, luckily for you, it doesn't involve spiritual exercises. Just head on out to Nick-N-Willy's ...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 13, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Devising Crescendo Endings Let us now praise famous pastry chefs. Sure, those white-hatted culinary wizards who make the savory appetizers and hearty entrees get all the credit, but let's be honest: What does the diner (if not the dentist) look f...

    by Bob Ruggiero on August 13, 1998
  • Article

    Mix Master - Pignetti's does a good job of blending flavors from Europe, Asia and the American Southwest

    Considering that Pignetti's is still in diapers -- it opened in early July -- this is a place remarkable for its poise. But once in a while, it reveals its inexperience. When three of us lunched there recently, the restaurant was relatively quiet, an...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 13, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    A Walk Through Chinatown For many, "dim sum" might be a term to accurately reflect the balance in their checking accounts. But to aficionados of Chinese food, it's a tasty Cantonese specialty. And if your exposure to foods of the Orient is usuall...

    by Bob Ruggiero on August 6, 1998
  • Article

    A Different Kind of Steak House - Chimi-Churris South American Grill has great steak and fabulous roasted potatoes

    I don't normally like steak houses. The spectacle of men, most of whom don't know a good steak from a bad one, happily forking out $30 for a T-bone that may or may not be mediocre is one I find profoundly depressing. Chimi-Churris South American...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 6, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Mortadella may be new to you. It was to me. A lightly smoked Italian sausage -- usually ham, though there are pork and beef versions as well -- it's studded with pistachios and seasoned with parsley, basil and cilantro. (Traditionalists add myrtle --...

    by Eric Lawlor on August 6, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Romance at Renata's "Do you know how many agreements have been signed on these tables for millions of dollars?" Sam Hannoush, owner/manager of Renata's (2006 Lexington, 523-2428), asks, sweeping his hand across the elegantly decorated restaurant ...

    by Bob Ruggiero on July 30, 1998
  • Article

    Pleasure Palace - Aleppo's Grille offers more good food than can be negotiated in one visit

    Over the years, Aleppo has suffered any number of setbacks. This city in northern Syria was, at various times, controlled by the Hittites, held by the Persians, seized by the Arabs, conquered by the Seljuk Turks, sacked by the Crusaders, captured by ...

    by Eric Lawlor on July 30, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    There's no telling what you're going to find at Chapultepec Mexican Restaurant (813 Richmond, 522-2365). The last time I was there, a Howard Stern look-alike -- or then again, it might have been the man himself -- sat slumped in a corner; and the tim...

    by Eric Lawlor on July 30, 1998
  • Article

    Dish

    Stranger Than Sushi The president of the Benihana Japanese steak-house chain was recently in Houston not only to check out the newest Benihana in Sugar Land (2579 Town Center Boulevard), but to scout potential locations for his new restaurant con...

    by Margaret L. Briggs on July 23, 1998
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    It's not true, as some have suggested, that I grew up eating steak and kidney pie. What I did grow up eating was another pub-grub mainstay, the so-called ploughman's lunch. I can't say which I enjoyed more: the lunch or the attendant danger. But I'll...

    by Eric Lawlor on July 23, 1998
  • Article

    Latina Nueva - Mixed-up geography and all, Amazon 2050 A.D. is on its way with some good dishes

    Yes, I admit it, I'm gullible, but when a restaurant calls itself Amazon 2050 A.D., I expect rain forest, chattering monkeys, tree frogs, brilliantly colored butterflies and, at the very least, a macaw or two. Am I being overly literal here? Probably...

    by Eric Lawlor on July 23, 1998
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From the Print Edition

Bradley's Fine Diner Is Bradley Ogden's Chance to Get Comfy, for Better or Worse Bradley's Fine Diner Is Bradley Ogden's Chance to Get Comfy, for Better or Worse

"Yankee pot roast" is exactly what you might expect from a place calling itself a "fine diner." The tender beef roast is topped with buttery, crunchy bread crumbs and surrounded… More >>

60 Degrees Mastercrafted Is All About Meat, But It's the Seafood that Caught Our Fancy 60 Degrees Mastercrafted Is All About Meat, But It's the Seafood that Caught Our Fancy

In a sea of specials and featured dishes and staff favorites, the catch of the day stood out: a simple fillet of red snapper atop a bed of eggplant and… More >>

Appreciate the Ceviche and Ceviche House Will Feel Like Home Appreciate the Ceviche and Ceviche House Will Feel Like Home

Halfway through the meal, everyone in the restaurant was standing, leaning slightly forward, staring at one wall of the restaurant with expressions of mixed fear, anticipation and excitement. No one… More >>

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