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  • Article

    The Church of the Immaculate Barbecue - Heaven has its smoking pits too -- at New Zion Baptist Church in Huntsville

    The pilgrimage to the countryside in quest of barbecue is a sacred Texas ritual A never more so than when its goal is the New Zion Missionary Baptist Church on Huntsville's sleepy south side. There, outside a rickety clapboard parish hall, three hulk...

    by Alison Cook on July 28, 1994
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Tempting Tapas It is 6:30 p.m. The freeway is an inferno. You're hungry and out of sorts. Driving home to cook doesn't sound too good right now; neither does tackling a full-scale restaurant meal. Solution: the gratifying tapas served in Americas...

    by Alison Cook on July 28, 1994
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Number One Males Barbecued crabs, those splendid Texas Gulf Coast perversities, usually entail a trip to the raffish Bolivar Peninsula, where they're a civic dish of sorts. But lately, giant Gulf hard-shells given the unlikely but delicious Texas...

    by Alison Cook on July 21, 1994
  • Article

    Pasta Imperfect - Angelina's mix-and-match noodle bar is a good concept, but the execution is dicey

    In a well-ordered universe, Angelina's would be a terrific place to eat. Young Johnny Butera's new Bellaire Boulevard pasta bar is predicated on a great idea: mix-and-match noodles and sauces at moderate prices, semi-self-served up in a chipper glass...

    by Alison Cook on July 21, 1994
  • Article

    Keen on Kaldi - This promising Heights coffeehouse has engaging youthful zest

    "Eat Here," commands a vintage luncheonette sign above the secretive alleyway leading to the Kaldi Cafe. Heights residents would do well to obey; this youthful starter restaurant run by a trio of twentysomething Brasil alumni is the kind of useful, c...

    by Alison Cook on July 14, 1994
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Diner Food, Cuban Style If the friendly little Cuban lunchroom in the Piquet Market is good enough for Rocket Carl Herrera -- who arrives in his Mercedes, accompanied by his gorgeous wife -- it is certainly good enough for the rest of us poor, no...

    by Alison Cook on July 14, 1994
  • Article

    Taste of Russia - Yakov's Deli proves there is more to the bear than borscht (though the borscht ain't bad)

    July is the cruelest month in Houston, when the heat congeals into a crushing, invisible mass and September seems impossibly far away. Redemption in July is where you find it: even within an unglamorous styrofoam bowl at an eccentric little storefron...

    by Alison Cook on July 7, 1994
  • Article

    The Raw and the Cooked

    The trouble with rushing off to brand-new restaurants is that occasionally you blunder into one that is not quite ready for prime time. My recent evening at the Blue Nile, a Spartan Ethiopian place that just opened on far western Richmond, was a text...

    by Alison Cook on July 7, 1994
  • Article

    World Peace and Barbecue - Texans and Koreans can unify behind Woo Mi Gwan's ribs

    It's a plot with a deliciously Houstonian twist: after years of combing my beloved East End for great barbecue, I finally hit the jackpot -- in an unsung little Korean joint. Faintly sweet, richly scallion-flavored, the crusty grilled pork ribs ...

    by Alison Cook on June 30, 1994
  • Article

    Woe is Me

    Nothing's what it used to be, or so the fogies tell us. I feel myself turning into one lately. The news that Roznovsky's had shuttered its clapboard burger joint on a somnolent West End corner put me into a certified fogey funk; I haven't felt so out...

    by Alison Cook on June 30, 1994
  • Article

    A Roma Therapy - Collina's pint-size Italian cafe smells like home

    In the eight-table microcosm of Collina's Italian Cafe, the simple act of breathing is therapeutic: from its homely open kitchen tumble warm, yeasty drafts, tomato-edged and ripe with garlic, that beget an almost giddy sense of well-being. The simple...

    by Alison Cook on June 23, 1994
  • Article

    Court Food

    When I have business downtown and desire to feel truly urban, I repair to one of the naugahyde-and-chrome stools outside La Palapa, the muddy-pink taco stand opposite the civil courthouse. From this unglamorous perch, I can observe the downtown dance...

    by Alison Cook on June 23, 1994
  • Article

    Louisiana Lunch

    Talk about sleepers. Every weekday noon, bargain takeout lunches that would do credit to a Lafayette home kitchen can be had in the warehouse limbo northwest of Loop 610 and the Katy Freeway. From a tiny storefront just off North Post Oak, Louis...

    by Alison Cook on June 16, 1994
  • Article

    Hong Kong Calling - The Imperial Palace serves Houston's classiest dim sum -- and then some

    All points bulletin: Houstonians who care about Chinese food should put the Imperial Palace at the top of their restaurant rotation list. Midday trays and trolleys piled with the city's classiest dim sum are just part of the lure at this huge, well-m...

    by Alison Cook on June 16, 1994
  • Article

    Pub Flubs Grub - The drinking beats the dining at the new Village Brewery

    Add the debut of the Village Brewery, with its five house-made beers on tap, to your list of summer's urban events: all month long, Houston's pent-up brewpub thirst has kept this cavernous old postal garage packed, even on weeknights. In animated att...

    by Alison Cook on June 9, 1994
  • Article

    Conversion Experience

    I'm not a Cafe Express person -- haven't been for years. The more celebrity chef Robert del Grande dumbed down the menu at his upscale fast-food spots, the less I found to interest me. "People want quiche," he once told me regretfully when I asked wh...

    by Alison Cook on June 9, 1994
  • Article

    Thai One On - Sawadee trades in summery charm and sweet -- but engaging -- Thai cuisine

    Sawadee snared me the moment I slipped into its pale-aqua universe, washed in a cool undersea light that gave its midnight-blue aquarium a surreal glow. "Please let the food be good," I silently entreated the restaurant gods, charmed by the prim and ...

    by Alison Cook on June 2, 1994
  • Article

    Andre's in Amber

    Change creeps slowly at Andre's, the timeless Swiss tea room that has puttered along for decades at the gateway to River Oaks Boulevard. Behind its blank, windowless facade lurks a cozy, Alpine cottage-esque world of blond paneling, snug booths and d...

    by Alison Cook on June 2, 1994
  • Article

    Hot Plate

    Galveston Ho It's that time of year when those of us who are not blessed with summer addresses in Aspen or Santa Fe start packing the car for Galveston. Figuring out where to eat among the island city's mostly mediocre seafood joints can be a tri...

    by Alison Cook on May 26, 1994
  • Article

    Bernardo Versus the Volcano - Can a graduate of Cafe Annie find true happiness at Senor Frog's?

    There's a talented chef trying to break out of Senor Frog's kitchen. Here's hoping Bernardo Orozco, a Cafe Annie veteran who's full of interesting ideas, can triumph over his current circumstances -- which involve the fastest case of Management Cold ...

    by Alison Cook on May 26, 1994
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Let the Food of El Sazon de Cuba Put You in a Miami State of Mind Let the Food of El Sazon de Cuba Put You in a Miami State of Mind

Miami, baby. Miami. Whenever he said the name of the city, he got a wistful look in his eyes, as if he were actually picturing walking along the beach in the… More >>

Bradley's Fine Diner Is Bradley Ogden's Chance to Get Comfy, for Better or Worse Bradley's Fine Diner Is Bradley Ogden's Chance to Get Comfy, for Better or Worse

"Yankee pot roast" is exactly what you might expect from a place calling itself a "fine diner." The tender beef roast is topped with buttery, crunchy bread crumbs and surrounded… More >>

60 Degrees Mastercrafted Is All About Meat, But It's the Seafood that Caught Our Fancy 60 Degrees Mastercrafted Is All About Meat, But It's the Seafood that Caught Our Fancy

In a sea of specials and featured dishes and staff favorites, the catch of the day stood out: a simple fillet of red snapper atop a bed of eggplant and… More >>

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