Driving down Lockwood the other day, I was delighted to see smoke billowing out of the chimney at Kozy Kitchen. I stuck my head in the back door and had a chat with owner Bill Taylor who was getting ready for the Saturday lunch rush. Taylor is also the guy who cooks the barbecue at the Continental Club on Main Street. He has been smoking meat for a long time.
Kozy Kitchen used to be the only place in town that offered barbecued veal, but that tradition didn’t survive the fire. Taylor told me he only cooked brisket, ribs and hot links these days.
At lunch time I found a crowd lined up at a little window that opened into Taylor’s kitchen. Nobody was sitting down at the tables inside, they were all getting barbecue to go. “White people cut the fat off their brisket, but it’s the fat that makes the meat tender and moist,” a guy named Richard Chenevert told me while I stood in line. Chenevert was from Baytown. He said Kozy Kitchen was the only place he could find good hot links these days.
