A slice of France: Can a simple slice of a pâté maison ($6.95) instantly transport you to your favorite spot in France? The answer is yes, especially if you eat it in the right ambience. At Brasserie Max & Julie (4315 Montrose, 713-524-0070), which really feels like a French brasserie, the pâté is made of coarsely ground pork, traditional French spices, garlic and pistachios, which add color and a crunchy texture. Three different lettuces are part of the accompaniment, as are cornichons (mini-gherkins), pickled pearl onions, grilled grape tomatoes and crisp toasts. Nothing could be simpler — or more reminiscent of La Belle France.
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