Poscol, Marco Wiles's fabulous new Italian joint on Westheimer, is the subject of this week's Cafe review. While I raved about the food I ate there, I also whined about the cured meats. Wiles calls the place an enoteca (wine bar) and salumeria (cured meat shop). But if you have ever been to a salumeria in, say, Bologna, for instance, you might find Poscol a little light on the cured meats. When I think of a salumeria, I think of an Italian deli that is full to bursting with prosciutto, porchetta, pancetta coppa, sopressata, mortadella, salami, pepperoni, finocchiona and a few miles of garlicky sausage.
The interior of Poscol is full of tables. So why pretend it's a salami store? Are we burned out on trattorias, osterias and ristorantes?