While there's no shortage of Inner Loop restaurants ready to rustle up red meat, we recommend a drive to the new Ruth's Chris (14135 Southwest Freeway, 281-491-9300) in Sugar Land. This spot is as gracious as a Southern gentleman, and more like a country club than the Richmond location. Try the porterhouse for two ($58), a thick cut of custom-aged Prime beef that servers kindly slice off the bone for you. Broiled in an extremely hot oven to lock in the flavor, the beef is served on a heated platter to keep it warm throughout the meal. And in the style of old New Orleans, the boatloads of butter add not only to the taste but also to the sizzling display upon arrival. Granted, the spattering can wreak havoc on a silk blouse -- regulars know to use a napkin as a shield -- but this mouthwatering treat is worthy of any dry-cleaning bill.
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