The citrus ceviche ($12) at Yelapa Playa Mexicana (2303 Richmond, 281-501-0391) is so different, it may set a new standard for this classic dish. Sure, it contains marinated fish such as amberjack, snapper, shrimp and scallops, but it also contains avocado, pomelo and lime for a smooth texture and citrus spike, as well as fresh ginger and hazelnuts for zing and crunchiness. The heat comes from pasilla chiles and a spicy tamarind oil, while a puree of black sesame seeds adds a dramatic jolt of color. The result is a spicy, sweet, salty combination that commands attention from the first bite and doesn't let go until it's all gone.
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