Whether it's curing your own meats or butchering your own pig, artisanal preparations are making a comeback nationwide. At Frank's Chop House (3736 Westheimer, 713-572-8600), the cold cuts ($19.95) are made in-house, and they're superb. The platter comes with three thin slices of mortadella, a thick slice of pork-and-veal pâté and a thick slice of ciccioli, or pork terrine. The ciccioli is coarsely ground with a texture similar to corned beef, while the pâté is ground extremely smooth. The plate also includes capers, pickled red onions and okra, almonds and slices of grilled baguette.
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