Chef Chat, Part 3: Benjy Mason of Down House and His Take on Classic American Dishes
Down House's kimchi burger
Photos by Mai Pham
For the last two days, we've been chatting with Down House's executive chef, Benjy Mason, about his love of Chinese food as a young boy, butchering pigs' heads in his early days staging at Feast and his rise to executive chef at Down House just nine months after he decided to change careers.
Today, we try some classic American fare from his new dinner menu, which rolled out approximately one month ago.
We started with a house salad with boquerones, which are Spanish anchovies cured in vinegar. "I wanted to give you this because it's pretty indicative of what we do. It's a pretty standard salad with a shallot mustard vinaigrette, green lettuce and cherry tomatoes," Mason said.
Garden fresh house salad with Spanish boquerones
Like the kale salad from his previous menu, which I'd really enjoyed, this one was well-portioned and could have easily been eaten as a main entrée. Sadly, I'm kind of averse to all things fishy -- anchovies included -- so even though the boquerones were lighter in flavor than anchovies, I couldn't really appreciate their addition, though I'm sure that lovers of the Spanish tapa would disagree. The fresh produce, especially the cherry tomatoes, shined through, however.
Medley of mushrooms is sautéed and poured over bread, topped with a perfectly poached egg.
Next up we tried mushrooms on toast with a poached egg on top. The egg was still jiggling as he set the plate down, signaling what would later be a gush of creamy yolk as I cut through it. I'm a sucker for anything with egg and runny yolk, and I finished the plate with gusto. It reminded me more of a breakfast dish, but it fits in with Down House's breakfast-lunch-dinner-food-anytime kind of theme. If you're craving something breakfast-y in the evening, this is it.
The thick-cut burger was juicy and runny and sweet and spicy and all things good.
I was excited to try Mason's kimchi burger, and it did not disappoint. Burger lovers will appreciate the eight ounces of thick and juicy Augustus Ranch grass-fed Texas meat patty topped with cheese, kimchi and a sunny-side up egg. The challah bun -- soft, moist and slightly sweet -- was well accented with bulgogi sauce, the Korean equivalent of a teriyaki marinade. All melded together -- the sweet and spicy, tangy crunchiness of the kimchi, the runny creaminess of the egg, the bulgogi sauce and juicy patty -- it made for one outstanding burger. The side of fries was crispy and generously portioned.
I "get" Down House. I find myself stopping by whenever I'm in the Heights, whether it's for a coffee or a late lunch. It's a place where I can have a meaningful one-on-one with a girlfriend or kick back with a group of friends and talk about everything and nothing. And at the heart of it is the food, with a young chef who is committed to sourcing local wherever possible and whose experience with food abroad translates into twists on American classics -- the addition of the Spanish boquerones to a traditional house salad, or kimchi to a classic American burger. And you never know, next up Mason might just decide to put some handmade Chinese dumplings on the menu (at least I'm hoping he will).
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to Houston dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.