Chicken Run

If you're seeking an escape from the sublime, but rich, spinach-and-corn enchiladas at Jalapeños [2702 Kirby, (713)524-1668], you need look no further than the Pollo Moran ($10.95). Of course, the only healthy thing about this dish is the chicken breast, which is promptly dredged in flour, sautéed in butter, drizzled with heavy cream and topped with Jack cheese. There are two distinct treats here: The first is the kick of the poblano peppers, which are sautéed with the mushrooms, red onions and chicken. The second is the cream sauce, which runs into the sides of rice and mixed vegetables, making for an ooey, gooey plate of south-of-the-border comfort food.


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