Colorless Chicken

Daniel Kramer

If ever there was a monochromatic dish, it would be the chicken Natalie ($15) at Café Natalie (2012 Highway 90A, 281-232-9191). Its one-dimensional color scheme, however, is not an indication of its taste. An oven-roasted, skinless white chicken breast basted in herbs sits on a bed of garlic mashed potatoes, and a good-sized serving of crabmeat, hard to make out because of its light color, sits on top. This crab and chicken combination gives the dish a sort of surf-and-turf appeal. The whole is covered with a white tarragon-cream sauce, which perfectly complements the ingredients. The only break to the simple color scheme is the side dish, consisting of mixed seasonal vegetables -- squash, zucchini and carrots -- which have been briefly sautéed, along with some onions (white, of course).

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