On the menu at Saffron Kabob House (5711 Hillcroft, 713-780-7474), the bolani ($4.95) is described as an Afghani calzone, but it looks more like a quesadilla. Sandwiched between two thin, flat, round pieces of naan is a spicy and very tasty mixture of aloo paratha, or potatoes mixed with chopped green onions and red chile peppers. It comes with a small bowl of yogurt-based dip, which cools off the fiery spices. The exterior of the naan is crispy because it's seared on the grill, while the stuffing remains soft and tender. Cut into pieces before being served, the dish is easy to eat by hand.
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