Construction Ahead

The Nouvelle Po Boy ($12.45) at Angelika Cafe & Bar (501 Texas, 713-225-1609) does not come with assembly instructions. It would be helpful if it did, since only careful assembly will guarantee success at raising it to your mouth without the contents falling out. Maybe they should go like this: 1. Gently remove the four bacon-wrapped oysters from each of the two skewers, being careful not to unravel the bacon. 2. Place them onto one half of the focaccia, which has been smeared with a zesty wasabi mayonnaise. 3. Arrange the lettuce, tomato, onion and pickle as desired on top of the oysters. 4. Place the other half of the focaccia on top and press down firmly so as to hold everything in place. Completing these steps will give you at least a fighting chance of enjoying this wonderfully updated classic sandwich with as many textures as components.


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