Crabs and More

Forno's of Italy's crab cakes
Daniel Kramer

It's hard to find crab cakes that aren't made with lots of fillers. But at Forno's of Italy (6439 West 43rd, 713-688-8757), they're full of lump crabmeat and little else except seasonings. Pan-fried to a golden brown, they have a crispy exterior and a wonderfully soft interior. In the crab cake fettuccine ($13.99), two of these delicious creations sit perched atop a heap of steaming hot pasta in a creamy cilantro sauce. The best way to eat this dish is to mash the crab cakes into the sauce and enjoy all the flavors together.

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