The beef tenderloin carpaccio ($14) at Ristorante Cavour (1080 Uptown Park Blvd., 713-418-1000) is so incredibly thin, you can see right through it to the glass plate below. The five almost-imperceptible slices of this raw delicacy are scattered with thin shavings of aged Parmesan, coarse rock salt, drizzles of olive oil and a Balsamic marinade. Tiny cubes of tomato, made into a sort of gazpacho, are the only flourishes of color. The flavors are simple, yet when they come together, they form the perfect union.
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