De Kine Loco Moco

De Kine Loco Moco
photo by Robb Walsh

On the last day of our stay at the Fairmont Orchid resort on the Kohala Coast, I told the waiter at the breakfast restaurant, "I'll have a super loco moco." When he asked what that meant, I complained that the last time I ordered a loco moco, I got one egg and some sort of mini-burger on a tiny appetizer plate. It was fine for a kid's portion, but it was no "de kine grind" loco moco. (de kine=good, grind=eats).

That must have gotten somebody in the kitchen excited because when the waiter returned, he was carrying the fanciest loco moco I have ever seen. The burger patty was a half pound Black Angus number from the grill menu and it was cooked beautifully to red-pink medium-rare in the middle. The gravy tasted like some kind of veal stock reduction. The eggs were over easy and splendid. And the plate was decorated with a salsa garnish, cilantro, and a curly green onion. I call that a proper loco moco.

-Robb Walsh


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