Divided Attention

Daniel Kramer

Gyrating belly dancers can be distracting. But the wonderful braised rabbit ($14.95) at Marrakech Restaurant (500 Westheimer, 713-942-0800) demands attention, too. Braised in Moroccan spices with more than a hint of lemon, the rabbit is cooked in a thick, well-spiced sauce with a saffron-yellow hue. It comes to the table with a gently spiced saffron rice, dotted with tiny pieces of carrots and intermingled with small pieces of vermicelli. What an exotic treat. Purists know to request couscous instead of rice.

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