Doesn't Taste Like Chicken

The menu at Tila's Restaurante and Bar (1111 South Shepherd, 713-522-7654) simply calls this entrée Chicken Endive ($12.95). But that doesn't do the dramatic dish justice. A bare chicken breast marinates in lime juice and cottonseed oil before it's rolled up, tied together and stuffed with sautéed endive salad and a pesto-queso mixture. The roll is then sliced and fanned open to reveal a green center with a white outer rim; it looks like a bull's-eye sitting on top of green tomatillo salsa. The naturally tart endive is counterbalanced by the slightly sweet pesto for a perfect marriage, almost making the chicken superfluous. Served with refried black beans and Spanish rice, it makes for one colorful dish.


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