Doing It Right

The veal puttanesca ($19.95) at Mangola's (11786 South Wilcrest, 281-498-7950) is a seductive, exciting dish worthy of its name, which means "whore's veal." As with many things culinary, there are several versions of the dish's origins. My favorite is that it was invented by Neapolitan prostitutes, who made this simple, quick sauce in between jobs, either for themselves or for their clients. All of the ingredients were staples in the kitchens of southern Italy -- the sauce is made from tomatoes, capers, olives, anchovies and garlic cooked in olive oil. At Mangola's, they add artichokes. The sauce is served over linguine with sautéed vegetables and two slices of sautéed, thinly sliced veal, to sustain a person for any subsequent activities.


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