—————————————————— Don't Go Changin' | Restaurants | Houston | Houston Press | The Leading Independent News Source in Houston, Texas

Don't Go Changin'

While the restaurant may have changed its name from Sonoma to 1415 Bar & Grille (so named for its address, 1415 California, 713-977-7911), one dish did not undergo a makeover: the braised crackling pork shank ($16). Slow-braising ensures that the meat falls easily from the bone while the exterior crackling remains crisp. The pork shank sits on a lively relish of caramelized onions, black beans and corn kernels. And, as if this weren't enough, it's served with a decadent pecan-topped sweet potato torte, as well as a mixture of fresh green beans, carrots and cauliflower brushed with a generous coating of garlic butter. Some things need not change.

KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Paul Galvani