Eat Your Heart Out
Photo by Robb Walsh

Eat Your Heart Out

At Olivia Restaurant in Austin, Chef James Holmes calls this dish "lamb corazon" and describes it on the menu as "pancetta & jalapeno-wrapped lamb hearts, with yaupon honey." When Holmes stopped by our table, he apologized for his lack of originality -- the bacon-wrapped packages look exactly like that old hunting-camp standard, dove poppers. Dove poppers are dove breasts wrapped in bacon, stuffed with jalapeno and grilled. If you know anybody who hunts dove, you have eaten a lot of these.

Honestly, I thought the concept was fine, but the execution didn't quite work. The problem was that the lamb hearts were too rare, which made them a bit of a challenge to chew. There was also a lot of crunchy fresh jalapeno in each package, so the burn kicked in and completely took over the taste. Maybe if the lamb hearts and jalapenos were grilled a little first before the wrapping, the whole thing would hang together better?


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