Embraceable Ewe

Anthony Butkovich

Skewers (3991 Richmond, 713-599-1444) is a counter-service eatery devoted to kabobs. Shiningly clean, the tables are hospitably set with a sea-salt grinder, some sliced pita bread and a little dipping bowl of olive oil and za'atar, a mixture of sumac powder, dried thyme, white sesame seeds and salt. The lamb kabob ($9.95) is soaked in a secret marinade that we're willing to wager contains pomegranate juice. The resulting meat arrives darkly crisped on the outside, pink on the inside, and tender as a mother's love all over. You can accompany it with a bottomless glass of rose water ($1.29), a drink made with a syrup derived from the petals of a certain variety of rose grown in Bulgaria. There is no wine or beer available because of the proximity of HISD's headquarters, but the menu graciously offers "BYOB…anytime."

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