The King Ranch enchiladas ($8.95) at Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen (12637 Westheimer, 281-679-8300) should satisfy just about any cowpoke. What makes them so good are the tiny cubes of grilled meat (chicken or beef) that have been wrapped in a tortilla and doused with a good helping of Sylvia's own chili gravy, whose typical brown color is interrupted by the cheese melting on top. Two come to a platter, although more are always available, accompanied by homemade refried beans and Spanish rice. Just right for roaming them 825,000 acres that make up the King Ranch.
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