Fatburger A Flop
I had high hopes for Fatburger. The chain out of Southern California calls itself “The Last Great Hamburger Stand.” The original was opened in 1952 by Ms. Lovie Yancey in Los Angeles. Yancey sold out to a franchise corporation in 1990. The chain currently claims 80 locations. Never-been-frozen ground beef is part of the schtick, but the place also brags about how lean the meat is. (Never a good sign.) So far, San Antonio is the only location in Texas, but Houston is on the “available” list.
I sampled the Fatburger location in the Buckhead neighborhood of Atlanta. I ordered the half pound King Burger with American cheese, lettuce, tomato, onions, pickles, mayo and mustard. The cheese was on the bottom.
Sadly, this is one of the worst “gourmet burgers” I have ever sampled. The lean meat was short on flavor and the bun was terrible. It was soft, but it stuck to your teeth instead of melting in your mouth. It was like chewing cotton.
An order of onion rings came in a puddle of oil that collected in the bottom of the paper boat. Fatburger is going to have to fine tune this concept if it hopes to make it in Houston. -- Robb Walsh
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to Houston dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.