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French Accent

Daniel Kramer

Crepes aren't easy to make. Getting the thickness just right is essential; too thin and they won't hold up, too thick and they won't cook right. At Cava Bistro (301 Main, 713-223-4068), they've mastered the elusive skill of preparing this French street food. Cava's crepes ($7.95) might look like large burritos, but the similarity ends there. What's most appealing about the crepes is their seemingly endless combinations of fillings (you get a choice of three) and sauces. Fillings include some standards like chicken, mushrooms and spinach, but also more adventurous choices such as leeks, roasted red peppers and merguez sausage (the spicy North African variety). Sauces include traditional Alfredo, pesto and tomato-basil, as well as a wonderful port wine sauce, which seems to go exceedingly well with just about any ingredient. For two extra bucks you can add shrimp, scallops or beef tenderloin (highly recommended).

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