Since 1889, when the classic Pizza Margherita, named in honor of the queen of Italy, was created at the Pizzeria di Pietro in Naples, people have been topping their pies with the strangest things. How about Peking duck, chili, tofu, oysters, tuna, squid, eel, guacamole or dandelion leaves? If those don't gross you out, PBJ with grape-soda sauce might. Needless to say, I was not surprised to find the Frutopia Pizza (small, $6.99; extra-large, $14.99) at Pizza Venise (3407 Montrose, 713-874-0025). The surprise is how good it tastes. The mozzarella cheese is missing (fortunately) but a sweet tomato sauce is not; the tomato, after all, is also a fruit. The fresh-fruit pizza (as opposed to a sweeter, canned-fruit version) is topped with bananas, kiwis, strawberries and pineapple. While it may be hard to get used to pizza with strawberries where the pepperoni should be, the refreshing taste makes this pie worth trying.
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