Two large chunks of pork come to an order at Gravitas (807 Taft, 713-522-0995), where this appetizer is simply named Crispy Pork ($10). Inside the crispy pork skin is a thin layer of fat over succulent pork belly meat, which falls apart on your fork. Unexpectedly, it lies on top of a Thai salad made with field greens and thin strips of carrot, with a spicy, pureed kimchee dressing. The result is an explosion of flavors that seems to come from everywhere.
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