Heirloom Melons: Swan Lake
Photos by Robb Walsh
Swan Lake is an heirloom melon with a sensational honey-like flavor and a custardy texture. It's my new favorite melon. I had never even heard of heirloom melons until last weekend when I ran into this guy selling them at the Bayou City Farmer's market on Richmond.
Garth Travis grows several kinds of heirloom melons. He had three varieties left when I stopped by his booth at the farmer's market. I bought one of each. The most alluring-looking was one called a Jenny Lind, after the Swedish opera star of the 1880s. It was shaped like a muskmelon with a big nipple-like protrusion at one end. I imagined it was going to be exceptionally succulent, but in fact, the green flesh tasted like a not-very-sweet honeydew. A dark-green variety called a winter melon is supposed to ripen for a couple months, so I didn't cut into it yet.
Garth and Kim Travis have a farm out west of Huntsville in a town called Bedias. They are urban drop-outs looking for a way to create a living out of sustainable agriculture. They call their place The Rose Colored Forest and explain their complicated belief system on their website. Personally, I find their philosophical musings a lot less interesting than their heirloom melons.
I am entertaining the idea of driving out there to get first pick of the Swan Lakes. I want to cut five or six big Swan Lake melons in half, stuff each side with homemade vanilla ice cream and serve them for dessert at a fancy dinner party.
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to Houston dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.