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Hot Plate

Anthony Butkovich

Dim Sum, Lone Star-Style: The sassy "Texas Pot Stickers" ($6.50) dished up at downtown's Travis Cafe [208 Travis, (713)223-4073] are delightful little dumplings packing a powerful punch of flavor as big as, well, Texas. The dense, smoky trout stuffing is fortified with glossy black beans and playfully dotted with colorful bits of roasted corn and poblano chilies. Alongside is a fashionable slaw made with dramatic dark red cabbage, sharply dressed with peanut oil and rice vinegar. The only problem is the odd number of dumplings -- five to a plate -- which guarantees a food fight between an even number of diners. Draw, pardner!


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