Stop by the Sabroso Grill [5510 Morningside, (713)942-9900] for an only-on-Sundays treat of paella de mariscos ($12.95). Chef Arturo Boado has streamlined this Spanish classic and serves it on platters as big as your head. Saffron rice cooked al dente is generously heaped with a garlicky, olive-oiled tangle of blessedly tender calamari, briny mussels in glossy black shells, jumbo shrimp and firm chunks of redfish, topped with fistfuls of chopped, red-ripe Roma tomatoes and green onions. The seafood is gently and perfectly cooked, a hallmark of Boado's kitchens. But be an early bird -- the paella hits the plates starting at 11 a.m. and often sells out in a few hours.
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