I'm a fool for truffles, and I'd kill for caviar, but in their absence -- and absent they usually are -- I'll happily settle for a steak-and-cheese sandwich. I'm addicted to these things, sometimes getting through three or four a week. I've tried giving them up. I've been in and out of rehab for years. But nothing seems to help, not even acupuncture. Which is why my doctor recently recommended the steak-and-cheese sandwich at Cafe Artiste (1601 West Main, 528-3704). "If you have to eat these things," he said, "at least eat a good one." And he's right. They are good. Called a po boy here, the sandwich's steak is shaved, the onions caramelized, and the cheese -- no meddling, please -- is the ever serviceable Kraft Swiss slices. And there's more: sauteed red and green peppers, and pan-fried potatoes with more garlic than Naples consumes in a week. If this be slumming, then I, for one, fully intend to slum on.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.