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Hot Plate

Daniel Kramer

Ah Kinchil, the Mayan sun god, would be proud of the Mayan chicken ($9 at lunch; $12.50 at dinner) at Cafe Red Onion (3910 Kirby, 713-807-1122, and other locations). Its many tones of gold and yellow seem to pay homage to the fiery orb. A generous pool of rich yellow queso is topped with a boneless chicken breast, lightly coated in tortilla crumbs, pan-fried to a golden hue and garnished with bright yellow fresh mango relish. Plantains, fried to a golden tone, complete the panoply of yellow. A small bowl of black beans and a dollop of sour cream with two red strips of tortillas springing forth are the only other colors on a plate worthy of the most fanatic sun worshiper.

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