The menu board at Café Express[3200 Kirby Drive, (713)522-3994; 1422 West Gray, (713)522-3100], that neck-stiffening list above the counter, doesn't invite one to linger over its many mouthwatering possibilities. It's so easy to overlook the lowly turkey burger amid all the fresh salads, pastas and sandwiches -- but don't. This version is a vast improvement over the typically dry, bland bird burger. The secret is the olive oil, lemon and herbs, which give the patty a smoky sausage flavor. The moist-but-nongreasy burger is further complemented by a wheat bun that's both chewy and fluffy. Dressed with red onions, juicy tomatoes and a few leaves of romaine lettuce, this lower-fat alternative to the traditional beef burger is the perfect way to satisfy carnivorous cravings without busting your belt.
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