Goat Ropers' Special: The friend who introduced me to the Chicken Bryan Texas ($14) at Carrabba's [3115 Kirby, (713)522-3131; and assorted suburban locations] couldn't explain why this bird soars, but I can: It's the goat cheese. The popular dish, named in honor of an Aggie customer, starts with a simple chicken breast that's grilled using the restaurant's basic baste of olive oil, garlic, red pepper and mustard. But after the first turn, a dollop of goat cheese is added, so that it melts onto the chicken -- and later, in your mouth. Don't be surprised if the extra-salty bite from the cheese, or the lemon-butter herb sauce and sun-dried tomatoes, causes your taste buds to break into song with The Twelfth Man.
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