Sugar and spice and salmon is nice: I'm currently crazy for Leopoldo "Polo" Becerra's chipotle-glazed grilled salmon ($18.95) at the Post Oak Grill [1415 S. Post Oak Lane, (713)993-9966]. Becerra carefully grills a thick plank of rosy salmon; its glaze balances juicy citrus with a pinch of sweetness, while underneath the smoky flavor of chipotle pepper growls ever so gently. "It's American food but with a Central American attitude," he explains. The salmon is served with roasted corn risotto, an enchanting, sticky tumble of Arborio rice, fresh grilled kernels of corn, toasted pine nuts, shiitake and portobello mushrooms and, of course, plenty of Parmesan cheese.
-- Margaret L. Briggs
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