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!Que milagro!: Robert del Grande's chiles rellenos at Taco Milagro [2555 Kirby, (713)522-1999] are not battered or deep-fried but unexpectedly grilled, leaving the glossy green poblanos firm and toothsome. Surprise again: The peppers are stuffed with a light, tart mixture of dried tropical fruits, chunks of pecan and a chewy white Chihuahua cheese, tucked under a bright red blanket of mild guajillo sauce. Two stuffed peppers are dished up on a plate with refried beans, rice and a dainty pile of lightly dressed coleslaw perched on a crisp homemade tortilla -- quite a bargain for only $4.95.

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