Houston's Most Underrated Restaurants
Some Houston diners feel like Luby's doesn't get enough credit. Others think there's a better cafeteria option.
Photo by Nicholas L. Hall
There are times when a food writer should rely on a personal base of experience to declare a restaurant or a dish “best in class"—or, sometimes, explain why it isn’t.
Other times, a food writer might be confronted with such a wealth of knowledge from the readership that it would be utter foolishness to do nothing more than the best job possible to act as a conduit and organize that information. This is one of those times.
I’ve been working on a list of restaurants that I consider tragically underrated. When I shared that I was working on social media, a flood of suggestions ensued. It seemed like everyone had a few restaurants they felt weren’t as well known as they deserved.
The reasons vary. Perhaps an otherwise excellent restaurant has been hampered by the road construction outside its front door, causing diners to avoid the place so they don’t have to deal with the traffic hassles.
Maybe it’s an older restaurant that has been taken for granted or a newer place that somehow got lost amid Houston’s continual stream of restaurant openings. The restaurant owner might rely too heavily on word of mouth to bring in new business instead of trying to advertise or contact the local food media.
Whatever the reason, it seems like some restaurants just don’t get talked about as much. Yet, they’re still putting out excellent food and have other qualities to admire.
To that end, I have combined readers' suggestions with my own and arranged the result by area of town as a handy reference guide. The result is an exciting list that promises many food adventures to come.
Captain Benny’s: The boat-shaped restaurants seem a little outdated and goofy, but Captain Benny’s has been serving reliable Gulf Coast seafood since 1967. In addition to the excellent roasted oysters and micheladas (which are what Amber Ambrose goes for every visit), there’s fried and broiled shrimp, catfish, stuffed flounder and more. As an added bonus, there are plenty of Cajun delights, too, like fried alligator, étouffée and gumbo. Reader Pick by host Amber Ambrose of the Feelin’ Good web series.
Luby’s: For many Houstonians, there’s just something about Luby’s and its long cafeteria counter of everything from salads to desserts. What keeps bringing people back? Readers cited fried fish with lemon, macaroni & cheese and roasted chicken. Reader Pick by Cheryl Gibbs, beverage consultant with Republic National and Donnie Carroll of Helen Greek Food & Wine.
All Bengal Sweets and Snacks, 13438 Bellaire Boulevard #7: All Bengal is one of the few Bangladeshi restaurants in the city and where natives go when they need a taste of home. The menu includes hilsa, an oily fish that is a common catch near Bangladesh. Here, it’s served with mustard. Also available is goat, the little crispy snacks called chaat, puffy, unleavened bread (puri) served with a variety of curries and seldom-seen sweets like jalebi (crispy strands of dough fried in pretzel-like shapes) and balushahi, which look similar to doughnuts but have a firmer texture. Reader Pick by attorney Annie Banerjee.
Saigon Café, 2902 San Jacinto: Thien An gets a lot of attention for its casual Vietnamese fare, but there’s apparently some real competition across the street. Food blogger Jay Francis says that the pho here is well worth more attention. “I have had the pho twice there. It is a very dark broth and the meat is fork-tender.” Certainly, no one will complain about another good Vietnamese spot near downtown. Reader Pick by Jay Francis.
Cali Sandwich & Fast Food, 3030 Travis: Those in the know regard this as the best stop for Vietnamese food in downtown Houston. Alex Gregg says his favorite dish is the spicy garlic chicken and also vouches for the pork or tofu bánh mì (Vietnamese sandwiches). Reader Pick by Alex Gregg of Moving Sidewalk and Sean Carroll of Melange Creperie.
Spindletop is admittedly pricey, but the view is worth a visit.
Photo by Phaedra Cook
Spindletop, 1200 Louisiana: This landmark spins slowly atop the Hyatt Regency, giving diners an unparalleled 360-degree view of downtown Houston and beyond. The downside is that dishes tend to be expensive. (Think “hotel pricing.” They’ve got to pay for that rotating mechanical beast somehow.) The menu has had a shift recently to local and Gulf coast ingredients. It’s ideal for fancy dates and well worth a checking out if it’s been a while since you’ve been. If you want to hedge your bets, sit at one of the bartop tables, have a cocktail, check out the menu and then decide if you want to commit to dinner. Spindletop is open Tuesdays through Saturdays for dinner only. Pro tip: valet park, let the attendant know you’re only there to dine at Spindletop and get your ticket validated before you leave the restaurant so you don’t get nailed with the same parking fee as the hotel guests. Critic's Pick.
Don't be fooled by the humble exterior of Andes Café. Inside, there are some very fine things going on.
Photo by Chuck Cook Photography
Andes Café, 2311 Canal, #104: Andes Café’s unlikely spot on the ground floor of a humble office building in EaDo is undoubtably part of what causes them to get overlooked, but inside is a fine café. In the mornings, Andes Café serves smoothies and fresh juices that include native South American fruits. There are hearty breakfasts, too, like llapingachos, an Ecuadorian breakfast of potato and cheese patties with in-house made pork sausage, two sunny side up eggs lettuce, avocado and a tangy vinaigrett called agrio. They’re open for lunch and dinner, too, and while some ingredients may be unknown to diners, the majority, like salmon, beef, quinoa and corn, are universal. Critic's Pick.
Bohemeo’s, 708 Telephone: artist Valerie Gudell said, “I've participated in several shows at East End Studio Gallery (a few doors down) and have eaten there a bunch of times. I had the fish tacos recently—great flavors and very light. I've also had their pizza and quite a few turkey paninis. All were yummy.” Reader Pick by artist Valerie Gudell.
The Kolache Shoppe, 3945 Richmond: This is one of the most well-regarded places in Houston for kolaches. These breakfast time delights are so good thanks to the old Czechoslovakian recipes that are still in use to this day. Reader Pick by Stacey Roussel of All We Need Farm.
Luling City Market, 4726 Richmond: The food at this longtime Houston barbecue joint is “good and hype-free,” according to Nancy Hahn Elliot. She says the recipe for Luling City Market’s barbecue sauce is the single most popular post on her blog. There must be a good reason for that. Reader Pick by Nancy Hahn Elliot of the Tag Sale Tastes food blog.
Pete’s Fine Meats, 5509 Richmond. Chef de partie Daniel McGarvey wrote, “I usually get the sliced brisket sandwich. But all of their food is top notch and has been since long before I was born.” Reader Pick by Chef de partie Daniel McGarvey of La Table.
Hughie's Tavern & Vietnamese Grill's bánh mì is just one of several outstanding items.
Hughie’s Tavern & Vietnamese Grill, 1802 W 18th: There is so much to love about this Vietnamese-Texas fusion joint that it’s hard to decide what to recommend the most. Is it the burger, topped with kimchi and a fried egg or the top-notch craft beer program? Shall we laud the excellent bánh mì or the juicy shaking beef? Maybe we should talk about the chicken fried steak, which is breaded filet mignon instead of the typical eye of round that has to be pummeled into submission? Why are you still here? Go already. Critic’s Pick and also recommended by senior editor John Nova Lomax of Texas Monthly.
Skinny Rita’s, 4002 North Main: First of all, the name is terrible and far too close to “Maggie Rita’s,” that disaster of a Tex-Mex that went under a few years ago. That said, readers say the food here is actually really good, including the quinoa chile relleno and the chicken mole. The margaritas, made with agave instead of simple syrup, are reportedly pretty potent, too. There’s now a second location at 607 West Gray in Midtown. Recommended by Houston Press freelance food writer Ellie Sharp, Marissa Jenkins of Let’s Have An Affair catering and Amber Ambrose of the Feelin’ Good web series.Next Page
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