At Lucio's (905 Taft, 713-523-9958), the pork chop ($20) is one of the best and least expensive ever. Wrapped in crispy fried prosciutto, it is stuffed with duxelle, a mixture of mushrooms and shallots cooked in butter with wine. The prosciutto lends the dish an interesting smoky, salty tone that lingers until the last bite. The chop comes with the house garlic-mashed potatoes, but Lucio's will gladly substitute them for the butternut squash risotto (highly recommended). Paul Galvani
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