Magical Mystery Tour

It's easy to get firm fish like snapper or shrimp to turn out crispy if you cover them in panko (Japanese bread crumbs) and then fry them, but getting scallops, which hold so much water, to do the same — that's nothing short of magical. The fisherman's plate ($19) at Jonathan's The Rub (9061 Gaylord, 713-465-8200) comes with two fillets of snapper, three shrimp and three scallops, all fried to a golden crisp and served with sweet potato fries. Over the top there's Parmesan cheese, rosemary and anis, which come together with the seafood to create a dish that could be from Italy, France or maybe Greece. It's a dish whose origins are as mysterious as its flavors are exotic.


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