Marvelous mollusks at Stella Sola

It is fitting that the wood-roasted mussels ($12) at Stella Sola (1001 Studewood, 713-880-1001) come with a broth made with Lone Star beer. The restaurant's name means "Lone Star" in Italian, and it's Bill Floyd and Brian Caswell's take on Italian food, which they describe as "Texas Tuscan." The mussels themselves are a blend of flavors that you wish would never end. There's the smoke, the beer broth, the confit of cherry tomatoes and, finally, the splash of salsa verde, which adds a touch of heat. Once the mussels are gone, the remaining broth makes for a wonderfully hearty, tasty soup.


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