Mary Had a…

For those who would roast an entire lamb hindquarter just for the crispy edges, here is heaven. At the newly opened Empire Turkish Grill (12448 Memorial Drive, 713-827-7475), the Iskender kebab ($9.95) is a stack of crispy lamb shingles, succulent by themselves but even better atop a framework of fried cubes of homemade Turkish bread that are mid-deep in pungent garlic yogurt. The lamb gyro slices have been broiled to enhance their crustiness and topped with a mild tomato sauce -- all the better to dab them with, my dear.

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