For those who would roast an entire lamb hindquarter just for the crispy edges, here is heaven. At the newly opened Empire Turkish Grill (12448 Memorial Drive, 713-827-7475), the Iskender kebab ($9.95) is a stack of crispy lamb shingles, succulent by themselves but even better atop a framework of fried cubes of homemade Turkish bread that are mid-deep in pungent garlic yogurt. The lamb gyro slices have been broiled to enhance their crustiness and topped with a mild tomato sauce -- all the better to dab them with, my dear.
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