Mm-mmm good: With such a long list of fabulously fresh seafood -- hardly any of it fried -- it may seem odd to focus on a soup dish at Clary's (8509 Teichman Road, Galveston, 409-740-0771). But the seafood gumbo ($5 a cup, $7.50 a bowl) is no ordinary soup. Thick and hearty, the way God intended, its Louisiana leanings don't overpower the main attraction: the same jumbo shrimp that's flame-broiled for dinner and lump crabmeat, another specialty of the house. A longtime apprentice of Gaido's, Clary Milburn set up his own seafood emporium nearly 20 years ago, and it's now as much a classic as its mentor. The tranquil spot overlooks the shrimp fleet of Offat's Bayou, a constant reminder of how fresh the inhabitants of your cup o' soup really are.
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