Nutty Fish

Daniel Kramer

The pecan-encrusted redfish ($26) at River Oaks Grill (2630 Westheimer, 713-520-1738) is a welcome addition to the menu. Redfish is tasty -- not too fishy -- and when it's simply dipped in flour and pan-fried in butter along with pecan pieces, all of the natural flavor comes through. River Oaks Grill tops the fish with a classical Creole Meunire sauce made with the flour-and-butter pan drippings. In French meunire means "miller's wife" (millers' wives, of course, had plenty of flour for cooking). Here the dish comes accompanied by haricots verts (green beans) and a wild rice pilaf.

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