The salada de bacalhau ($8) is one of the many tapas plates available at Oporto (3833 Richmond, 713-621-1114) after 5 p.m. It consists of dried, salted cod cooked in olive oil with potatoes and hard-boiled egg. Visually, it's hard to distinguish between the three ingredients, since all are as white as could be, but the taste of salt cod is unmistakable salty and slightly sweet at the same time. Salting it is a way of preserving fish, popular across the Mediterranean and in Latin America, that dates back at least 1,500 years.
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