Some see lasagna as an outdated potluck dish from the '70s. But at Prego (2520 Amherst, 713-529-2420), the lasagna ($8) reaches new heights. Layers of homemade pasta, which hold their bite and don't go mushy on you, are cut into five-inch rectangular pieces and layered generously with mini veal balls, a béchamel sauce, fresh mozzarella and a thick, rich, tomato sauce. The cheese on top, brown and blistered from the broiler, is drizzled with a very interesting pesto sauce. It can't be coincidental that the red tomato sauce, white mozzarella and green pesto invoke the Italian flag, so, in addition to tasting heavenly, the dish also looks good. — Paul Galvani
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