If ever there was a throwback to past eras in Houston, it would be the Yale Street Grill (2100 Yale, 713-861-3113), which has been serving real malts, shakes, floats and burgers since 1923. For an authentic touch of nostalgia, try the fish sandwich ($4.75). One bite of this simple creation will transport you back in time. The battered and fried fish patty is served on a plain bun that's been warmed on the griddle, then slathered with mayo and topped with strips of lettuce and slices of tomato. There's no better accompaniment than Yale Street's sweet potato fries ($2.25), with their bright orange color (think Chee-tos). They taste at once salty and sweet -- a hard-to-beat combination, no matter the era.
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