Restaurant Reviews

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Pizza Like Patsy Used to Make at Grimaldi's Pizza Like Patsy Used to Make at Grimaldi's
, February 26, 2009
The crispy, thin-crusted pizza at Grimaldi's in Sugar Land is covered with bright-white fresh mozzarella and zesty red sauce and baked in a... More >>
Flavors of the Fifth at Davis Meat Market and Burt's Meat Market Flavors of the Fifth at Davis Meat Market and Burt's Meat Market
, February 19, 2009
There were enough falling-apart-­tender beef tips in thick brown gravy over rice in the Styrofoam container to feed a medium-sized family. Jim... More >>
The Valentine's Day Minefield at Central Market The Valentine's Day Minefield at Central Market
, February 12, 2009
The USDA Prime tenderloin was perfectly grilled and slathered in garlicky chimichurri, just the way my significant other likes it. The herbed... More >>
Houston Sushi's Polar Opposites: Soma & Oishii Sushi Houston Sushi's Polar Opposites: Soma & Oishii Sushi
, February 05, 2009
As the name suggests, the "Crazy Irishman" roll at Soma on Washington is not one of those restrained-looking creations composed by a... More >>
Malt Shop Burger at Cheeburger Cheeburger Malt Shop Burger at Cheeburger Cheeburger
, January 29, 2009
The name comes from this Saturday Night Live routine about a diner where they said, 'No Coke, Pepsi' all the time, and that's why we have no... More >>
Cafe Rita Cafe Rita
, January 22, 2009
"When I opened on Monday morning at ten-thirty, there were people standing in line out front!" George Sarikhanian, the gregarious cashier/owner... More >>
On a Budget at Bistro des Amis On a Budget at Bistro des Amis
, January 15, 2009
The $10.95 lunch special at Bistro des Amis, a tiny French cafe in Rice Village, started with a soul-warming vegetable potage. Dunking buttered... More >>
Gas Station Delicacies at Ekko's Greek-American Deli Gas Station Delicacies at Ekko's Greek-American Deli
, January 08, 2009
Classic Greek moussaka is made with layers of fried eggplant slices, ground meat in a tomato sauce seasoned with cinnamon and herbs, and a thick... More >>
Over-the-Top Chophouse at Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse Over-the-Top Chophouse at Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse
, January 01, 2009
There was a seven-inch bone sticking out of the Fred Flintstone rib eye on the plate in front of me. I carved the monster chop with the heavy... More >>
The United Nations of Food at Phoenicia Specialty Foods The United Nations of Food at Phoenicia Specialty Foods
, December 25, 2008
The slow-cooked lamb shank was so tender you could cut it with a plastic knife and fork. And since those are the only utensils available in the... More >>
Bombay Salad and Colossal Shrimp at King's Inn Bombay Salad and Colossal Shrimp at King's Inn
, December 18, 2008
Every meal at the King's Inn on Loyola Beach starts with a plate of sliced tomatoes and a dish of the restaurant's mysterious "tartar sauce." I... More >>
Stew Weather: Bistro Don Camillo Stew Weather: Bistro Don Camillo
, December 11, 2008
The duck liver mousse at Bistro Don Camillo near Voss and San Felipe looked like fluffy chocolate pudding. I spread a glob on a slice of toast... More >>
Puppy Love at Saint Dane's Bar & Grille Puppy Love at Saint Dane's Bar & Grille
, December 04, 2008
Brooklyn music promoter and magazine editor Linyee Yuan was waiting for me at a picnic table on the deck of Saint Dane's Bar & Grille the other... More >>
Nuevos Huevos at La Guadalupana Bakery and Café Nuevos Huevos at La Guadalupana Bakery and Café
, November 27, 2008
You don't often see croissants and sandwiches on a Mexican breakfast menu, but both are available at the little bakery and cafe called La... More >>
Feast Is Bloody Brilliant Feast Is Bloody Brilliant
, November 20, 2008
Black pudding is the British name for blood sausage. At Feast, the remarkable restaurant in the creaky old wooden house on Westheimer where Chez... More >>
Sangria and Sliders at Open City Sangria and Sliders at Open City
, November 13, 2008
The lamb sliders were the best thing I sampled on my first visit to Open City, the curious nightclub/restaurant on Bagby in Midtown. The... More >>
Busy Beaver's Busy Beaver's
, November 06, 2008
The fork-tender pork carnitas at Beaver's came on a slice of Texas toast that floated on a pool of savory greens surrounded by bacon and bean... More >>
Taco Cones and Tasmanian Devils at Amazon Grill Taco Cones and Tasmanian Devils at Amazon Grill
, October 30, 2008
The "Amacones" at Amazon Grill are tacos shaped like ice cream cones. Four corn tortillas are freshly fried into perfect cone shapes and then... More >>
Meat Lovers' Swordfight at Fuegovivo Churrascaria Meat Lovers' Swordfight at Fuegovivo Churrascaria
, October 23, 2008
The server with the filet mignons wrapped in bacon was hovering nearby, and the guy with the lamb chops was on his way. But I was busy catching... More >>
Flounder Fanmail for Jimmy Wilson's Seafood & Chop House Flounder Fanmail for Jimmy Wilson's Seafood & Chop House
, October 16, 2008
My friend Jay Francis was holding the last five inches of crispy panfried flounder by the tail and munching on it like it was a lollipop. From... More >>
Muffuletta Burger at Hubcap Grill Muffuletta Burger at Hubcap Grill
, October 09, 2008
The new king of burger joints in downtown Houston sports a crown of shiny hubcaps. "Welcome to Hubcap Grill," reads a sign in the entranceway,... More >>
Pork Ribs Taste Like Candy at Midway BBQ Pork Ribs Taste Like Candy at Midway BBQ
, October 02, 2008
The little pork rib from Midway BBQ in Old Katy was falling-apart tender. I am guessing the pit boss painted the rack with a sweet barbecue sauce... More >>
Memories of Brennan's Memories of Brennan's
A Houston institution burns; will it be back?
, September 25, 2008
Turtle soup and gospel music are the co-stars in my fondest memory of Brennan's. It was a gorgeous sunny Sunday afternoon. We sat outside on a... More >>
Steak Night: Under the Volcano Steak Night: Under the Volcano
, September 18, 2008
Last week, in my review of Dharma Cafe, I wrote that it was my dharma to eat steak. This week, I further fulfilled my carnivorous destiny by... More >>
Steak, Wine and Pie at Dharma Cafe Steak, Wine and Pie at Dharma Cafe
, September 11, 2008
Vibrant green threads of lime zest decorated the top of the exhilaratingly tart key lime pie at Dharma Cafe on Houston Avenue. The pie is... More >>
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