Restaurant Reviews

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Historic Huaraches in Stafford Historic Huaraches in Stafford
A taco stand yields an awesome breakfast and the solution to a Mexican food mystery
, July 03, 2008
The "Huarache Macho" at Huarache Azteca Express in Stafford is my new favorite spin on the authentic Mexican breakfast. It's a bean-stuffed masa... More >>
Extra Crispy at Russo's New York Coal-Fired Pizzeria Extra Crispy at Russo's New York Coal-Fired Pizzeria
, June 26, 2008
"Was the crust black on the edges?" a fellow pizza geek asked me when I reported on my first experience at Russo's New York Coal-Fired... More >>
Wild Wild Waller Burgers: The Hill Bar & Grill Wild Wild Waller Burgers: The Hill Bar & Grill
Take a day trip out to Waller and try a spectacular cheeseburger on Texas Toast
, June 19, 2008
J's Special at The Hill Bar & Grill in Waller is a cheeseburger served on Texas toast. Swapping out a bun for two double-thick slices of toasted... More >>
Madagascar Birthmarks at French Riviera Bakery Madagascar Birthmarks at French Riviera Bakery
This fabulous little French Bakery is one of the coolest hangouts in the Galleria
, June 12, 2008
The pâté de campagne sandwich at French Riviera Bakery on Chimney Rock comes thickly spread with coarse, country-style pork pâté on your choice... More >>
Fast Food at the French House Fast Food at the French House
This restaurant's sandwiches are surprisingly good, if you stick with the baguettes and croissants
, June 05, 2008
The hot ham and Swiss cheese sandwich with sweet hot mustard on a crusty baguette with a cup of cold cucumber soup on the side may be the best... More >>
Best Burger in Texas? Best Burger in Texas?
, May 29, 2008
The double-meat, double-cheese at 105 Grocery & Deli in the rural hamlet of Washington was too much burger for me. I got exactly halfway through... More >>
Tropical Heat at Caribbean Jerk Cuisine Tropical Heat at Caribbean Jerk Cuisine
Cooling off — and breaking a sweat — at this Richmond Avenue joint
, May 22, 2008
It's a sweltering day, but I have a plan. What better cure for the hot, sticky-weather blues than some jerk chicken and Red Stripes? I swoop up... More >>
Malaysian and Chinese at Hong Kong Dim Sum Malaysian and Chinese at Hong Kong Dim Sum
, May 15, 2008
9889 Bellaire Blvd., 713-777-7029. Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. "What's that called?" my buddy John Bebout asked the hostess at the new... More >>
Nuevo Inca-Mex at Inka South American Cuisine Nuevo Inca-Mex at Inka South American Cuisine
, May 08, 2008
The borrego al pebre at Inka South American Cuisine, the new South American restaurant on Westheimer, is a rack of lamb served over an olive oil... More >>
Great Stuff at Abe's Cajun Market Great Stuff at Abe's Cajun Market
, May 01, 2008
A singer with an acoustic guitar warbled popular songs in the big dining room of Abe's Cajun Market in Clear Lake on a recent Friday around... More >>
Short Order Thai at Thai Lily Café Short Order Thai at Thai Lily Café
, April 24, 2008
The tom kha gai soup at Thai Lily Café on Dairy Ashford is made with chicken in coconut milk broth with lemongrass, fresh chiles, lime juice and... More >>
Places Like Los Dos Amigos Are Disappearing On Washington Places Like Los Dos Amigos Are Disappearing On Washington
, April 17, 2008
My carnitas dinner came to the table on a sizzling comal at Los Dos Amigos, a homey old Tex-Mex joint on Washington Avenue. You see a lot of... More >>
Jackie Tan Thinks Big Jackie Tan Thinks Big
, April 10, 2008
The sensational seafood salad at Jackie Tan Restaurant on Bellaire featured cold shrimp and crunchy jellyfish slivers tossed with shredded pork,... More >>
Crawfish Cravings at Swampy's Cajun Shack Crawfish Cravings at Swampy's Cajun Shack
Cheap mudbugs and cold beer are the main attractions at this laid-back Katy Cajun restaurant
, April 03, 2008
It was Saturday night, and five of us were sitting at a picnic table outside on the deck at Swampy's Cajun Shack on Grand Parkway just south of... More >>
La Nouvelle Recession Cuisine at Au Petit Paris La Nouvelle Recession Cuisine at Au Petit Paris
Your dollar buys a little less at this new French restaurant on Colquitt
, March 27, 2008
"Queue de Boeuf Braisé avec Champignons Sauvages, Oignions Grelots Caramelisés, Lardons, Mousseline de Pomme de Terre et Pousse D'Epinard" means... More >>
Great Gado Gado at Noodle House 88 Great Gado Gado at Noodle House 88
A nondescript noodle shop on Bellaire is serving some of the best Indonesian food in the U.S.A.
, March 20, 2008
Covered in sweet soy and peanut sauce and dotted with chopped peanuts and garlic bits, the luscious Indonesian version of chicken satay is... More >>
Breakfast Enchiladas at Mi Sombrero Breakfast Enchiladas at Mi Sombrero
At this old-fashioned Tex-Mex joint on North Shepherd, the huevos are served all day on weekends
, March 13, 2008
Gooey cheese enchiladas topped with two fried eggs — that's my favorite Tex-Mex breakfast. I usually have to beg the waiter to go ask the kitchen... More >>
It's Hip to Be Square at Masraff's It's Hip to Be Square at Masraff's
Continental cuisine is over, so why would anybody want to eat at this retirees' hang-out on South Post Oak Lane?
, March 06, 2008
As the trio struck up a Brazilian samba tune and warm sunshine streamed in through the high windows, we settled back into our chairs to take in... More >>
Paneer and Pizza at Gourmet India and Kings Chicken Paneer and Pizza at Gourmet India and Kings Chicken
, February 28, 2008
There were three chicken, one goat and five vegetable entrées offered at the lunch buffet at Gourmet India the day I stopped by. The lunch shift... More >>
Little Bitty Burger Barn Little Bitty Burger Barn
"It's okay to be little bitty in the big city" is an apt slogan for this new burger joint, where sliders rule
, February 21, 2008
Little Bitty's Sliders" were four mini hamburgers topped with caramelized onions served on tiny toasted rolls. The cute little burgers seemed... More >>
Ghost Town CFS: Carriage House Cafe Ghost Town CFS: Carriage House Cafe
Step back in time — to a spooky old carriage barn with a monster chicken-fried steak
, February 14, 2008
If you believed all the talk, you'd think that the large chicken-fried steak at Carriage House Cafe on Fallbrook would feed a large family of... More >>
Fish Frenzy at Tokyo One Fish Frenzy at Tokyo One
Pile your plate with scads of sashimi at this new all-you-can-eat Japanese buffet
, February 07, 2008
The salmon sashimi at Tokyo One had such wide diagonal stripes of white fat running through it that each slice looked like an orange-and-white... More >>
Cajun Gets a Crewcut at Denis' Seafood House Cajun Gets a Crewcut at Denis' Seafood House
, January 31, 2008
"The third time's the charm," I muttered as I slurped. The 13 oysters I got last week at Denis' Seafood House on the Katy Freeway were the best... More >>
Keep Houston Weird: Dry Creek Café Keep Houston Weird: Dry Creek Café
It's a great place to hang out
, January 24, 2008
The medium-rare slices of fish on the grilled ahi tuna salad at Dry Creek Café were a juicy watermelon pink in the middle, with a lovely crust of... More >>
Simposio Simposio
An old favorite has opened at a new location, but is its upscale Northern Italian fare still worth the price?
, January 17, 2008
Vitello tonnato — thin slices of chilled veal covered with creamy tuna, anchovy and mayonnaise sauce — may sound bizarre, but it tastes... More >>
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