Restaurant Reviews

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I Am the Walrus, Part 2 I Am the Walrus, Part 2
Oysters on the half shell aren't the only attraction at the old Magnolia
, January 26, 2006
"I weep for you," the Walrus said: "I deeply sympathize." With sobs and tears he sorted out Those of the largest size, Holding his... More >>
I Am the Walrus, Part 1 I Am the Walrus, Part 1
Winter is prime time at Willie G's oyster bar
, January 19, 2006
"A loaf of bread," the Walrus said, "Is what we chiefly need: Pepper and vinegar besides Are very good indeed-- Now if you're ready,... More >>
Forget  the Food Forget the Food
Go to La Strada for Sunday brunch, and the fiesta will leave you wanting more
, January 12, 2006
La Strada Sunday brunch is not for everyone. To suggest that it is would be the biggest media snafu since, um, "The Miners Are Alive!" Don't... More >>
A New Tony's Order A New Tony's Order
A Houston mainstay becomes a destination for culinary thrill-seekers
, January 05, 2006
When nighttime rolls around, stomachs start growling and dinner choices are discussed, one option never mentioned among my ilk is Tony's. This is... More >>
Sanguine Soup and Sandwich Sanguine Soup and Sandwich
Bodard Bistro on Bellaire is packing them in with "not too greasy" Vietnamese food
, December 29, 2005
Half of a Vietnamese barbecued pork sandwich and a small bowl of soup makes the perfect portion, my daughter Julia declared. We were finishing up... More >>
Bling-Bling Bordeaux Bling-Bling Bordeaux
At Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, flashing your wad is the whole point
, December 22, 2005
The chef's counter at Pappas Bros. Steakhouse is the best seat in the house, unless you're trying to get romantic. When the hostess told my... More >>
Sushi as an Accessory Sushi as an Accessory
At Uptown Sushi, the fish looks great whether you eat it or not
, December 15, 2005
It was a Thursday night, and Uptown Sushi was packed to the gills. Throbbing techno music made it feel like we were entering a dance club. The... More >>
Suburban Import Suburban Import
Kiran Verma's culinary chutzpah finds a home inside the Loop
, December 08, 2005
If you love Indian food, then you've got to love the Houston suburbs. Yes, they're stomping grounds for nutters in propaganda-plastered H2's, but... More >>
Wrestling with Gourmet Tex-Mex Wrestling with Gourmet Tex-Mex
Don't let the upscale decor at the new Cyclone Anaya's trick you into ordering the lobster enchiladas
, December 01, 2005
The "enchiladas Anaya's" at the new Cyclone Anaya's on Durham come smothered in a fabulous sauce of ancho chiles, slow-cooked onions and sautéed... More >>
All You Need Is Larb All You Need Is Larb
The food can be great at Sabai Thai, as long as you order the right dishes
, November 24, 2005
Domestic beers for $1 and imports for $2 -- that was enough to get me to visit Sabai Thai, a new restaurant in the Metropole Center on Bellaire.... More >>
No Nobu No Nobu
Latino-Asian fusion cuisine isn’t as easy as some famous chefs make it look
, November 17, 2005
They serve sautéed snapper at Red Onion Seafood y Mas, the Latin fusion restaurant on the Northwest Freeway. And I'm happy to report that they... More >>
Naked Posole Naked Posole
The pork-and-hominy soup at Taqueria Mexico looks a little plain, until you dress it up
, November 10, 2005
Posole is a traditional Mexican soup from the Jalisco region that has become a popular weekend breakfast in Texas and New Mexico. At Taqueria... More >>
Damn Fine Fish Heads Damn Fine Fish Heads
Keep an open mind: Malaysian food is full of surprises
, November 03, 2005
My dining companion scrunched up her nose when our "Singapore fish head vermicelli soup" arrived. We were eating dinner at Cafe Malay on... More >>
Technical Difficulties Technical Difficulties
Slick, expensive and clueless, Fox Sports Grill is a sports bar that can't deliver a hamburger
, October 27, 2005
The half-pound Angus burger I ordered at Fox Sports Grill, the gleaming new sports bar in the Galleria, comes to the bar medium-rare as... More >>
Spy vs. Spy Spy vs. Spy
Our restaurant critic gets busted at Gravitas, so we send in our counterintelligence team
, October 20, 2005
Scott Tycer, the chef and owner of Gravitas, the hip new bistro on Taft, was standing at the end of the stone counter in the kitchen looking out... More >>
Chicken-Dancing Margs Chicken-Dancing Margs
Let this vintage Memorial-area Mexican restaurant take all the problems off your hands
, October 13, 2005
My buddy Joe is standing in the front of the dining room at La Hacienda Mexican Restaurant flapping his elbows, trying to sell his son and... More >>
Cajun Cave Cajun Cave
At Roadhouse dance hall, the party starts at 2 p.m. every Saturday
, October 06, 2005
Every now and then, someone opens the big metal exit door and a shaft of blindingly bright sunshine slices through the cool, dark interior of... More >>
Crispy Muc, Tender Bo Crispy Muc, Tender Bo
There's a thrilling new Vietnamese restaurant on Bellaire with a menu that reads like a mystery
, September 29, 2005
You dip the golden, batter-fried squid chunks into a little dish of lime juice, salt and pepper before you pop them in your mouth at Jasmine... More >>
Un-French Frites Un-French Frites
Mussels and fries, monk beers and Belgian pride abound at Cafe Montrose
, September 22, 2005
A pile of creamy white mussels in shiny black shells sits in a big steaming pot in the middle of our table at Cafe Montrose. The tender mussels... More >>
Reggae Buffet Reggae Buffet
Neville Monteith warns local food lovers, "Look out, Houston, me cooking now!"
, September 15, 2005
The Jamaican curry goat at Tropical Grill on Bissonnet is a sumptuous, spicy stew containing long-cooked pieces of meat clinging to chunks of... More >>
Can't Hold a Candle to It Can't Hold a Candle to It
Candelari's Italian sausage pizza is a Washington Avenue wonder
, September 08, 2005
A few nights ago, I sat down and feasted on a sausage pie at Candelari's Pizzeria at Washington Avenue and Westcott. It made my eyes widen and my... More >>
Crab Shells and Stink Beans Crab Shells and Stink Beans
The most authentic Thai restaurant in Space City is a wild Asian-food ride
, September 01, 2005
The menu at Vieng Thai, the best Thai restaurant in Houston, is spell-binding. I've never heard of half the dishes on it. And although I've eaten... More >>
Hello,  Yum Yum Hello, Yum Yum
A new Asian diner brings dinnertime dim sum to the Inner Loop
, August 25, 2005
The white-meat chicken chunks have been wrapped in dough and pan-fried. When it seems cool enough to eat, I dip the odd-looking chicken dumpling... More >>
Don't Mess With Tex-Mex Don't Mess With Tex-Mex
Los Tios attempts a little modernizing, to the chagrin of old-timers
, August 18, 2005
There is a table in front of the host's stand at the Los Tios Mexican Restaurant on Beechnut on which several dinners are displayed. A sign... More >>
Past Its Prime Past Its Prime
Taste of Texas Steakhouse takes you on a nostalgia trip to the salad bar.
, August 11, 2005
The cramped salad bar at Taste of Texas featured a bin of chopped iceberg lettuce accented with colorful streaks of sliced red cabbage. Among the... More >>
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