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Restaurant Reviews
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It's Le Bombe A new restaurant has Republican bigwigs dancing on the grave of the French boycott
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February 24, 2005
The bombe d'avocat au crabe at Bistro Moderne is a dome of creamy avocado puree formed around a core of tomato, lump crabmeat and cilantro salsa... More >>
Wine Geek Chic Which wine will you be serving at your Oscar party?
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February 24, 2005
Sideways, the sleeper hit movie about love among California wine geeks, seems to be changing America's taste in wine. Nominated for five Oscars... More >>
French Food Sans Frenchmen Lazy lunching in a River Oaks hideaway
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February 17, 2005
On my first visit to Bistro Calais, I walked in the front door of the historic cottage that houses the restaurant, took a look around the empty... More >>
Banana Breakfast Central American early-bird specials
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February 10, 2005
Sweet, gooey, piping-hot fried plantains are an ideal breakfast food. Especially the way they serve them in Central American restaurants: with... More >>
Modern Masala Houston’s upscale Indian restaurants are going through some changes
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February 03, 2005
Tandoori salmon, served in a sweet and tart cranberry and orange sauce, is one of the most interesting items you'll ever see at an Indian... More >>
The Xiu Mai Super Bowl A new champion in the dim sum game
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January 27, 2005
It was a little after 11 on a Sunday morning when I first dropped by Fung's Kitchen to check out their new dim sum service. I was amazed from the... More >>
The Fickle Fez A cute but erratic Middle Eastern cafe on Westheimer
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January 20, 2005
Sitting out on the patio of La Fendee Mediterranean Grill under blue skies on a 70-degree January afternoon, we toasted the perfect weather with... More >>
Cajun, Twice Removed Great food, lousy atmosphere? Get it to go!
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January 13, 2005
The thick fillet of salmon served at Cajun Town Cafe was broiled until it was pleasantly charred along the edges. There are five toppings to... More >>
Paella Paydirt A Spanish tapas restaurant with nice rice
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January 06, 2005
You can taste the flavor of shrimp, chicken, Spanish chorizo, calamari and saffron in each grain of rice in the paella. Rioja, the new Spanish... More >>
Le Grand Cheesecake The Vegas version of Venice, or Vienna, or someplace
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December 30, 2004
The soaring facade of Grand Lux Cafe looks like the outside of one of those pseudo-Italian Las Vegas casinos. As you drive down Westheimer, an... More >>
Sunday Chaat North meets South on NASA Road 1
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December 23, 2004
The host at Annapurna South Indian Cuisine on NASA Road 1 brings some puffy pooris to our table. Served hot out of the oven, the paper-thin... More >>
Risqué, Medium Rare Steak and tits -- how can you go wrong at the Strip House?
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December 16, 2004
My fork and knife hover over a slice of double-cut New York strip "Pittsburgh." It's the best thing on the menu at the Strip House, the new... More >>
The Next Chef Boyardee Wolfgang Puck, creator of Spago in Hollywood, has lost control of his name
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December 09, 2004
The nine-inch spinach-and-mushroom pizza at Wolfgang Puck Express comes on a thin, crisp crust. Along with the mushroom slices, there's... More >>
Eat Mi Houston has some of the best Vietnamese noodle houses in the country
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December 02, 2004
Winding the curly yellow egg noodles around the red barbecued pork slivers with my chopsticks, I put together a large bite and raise it to my... More >>
Landmark Fajitas What you order at Herrera's Mexicatessen depends on how you feel about bacon
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November 25, 2004
My dining companion thinks she has ordered Herrera's Mexicatessen's "fajitas bravo," which come with sautéed bacon, onions and mushrooms. But... More >>
History Reheats Itself Next time you watch a game, get Marine's empanadas instead of pizza
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November 18, 2004
A cheerful yellow light filtered through the cozy Colombian bakery called Marine's Empanadas. The tiny cafe, with its eight tables and four... More >>
Sweet 17 The Sam Houston Hotel unites shrimp curry, king salmon with Moroccan spices, and mac 'n' cheese
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November 11, 2004
In many ways, entering the Sam Houston Hotel's new restaurant, 17, is like walking into Jurassic Park -- you can tell they've "spared no... More >>
Dancing Delicacies Saffron's delicacy pie -- made with lamb livers, sweetbreads and mountain oysters -- is divine
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November 04, 2004
A large black Mercedes swoops to the curb while I'm trying to hand my keys to the valet in front of Saffron, the new Moroccan restaurant next... More >>
Fried in the Heights At Barbecue Inn, the 'cue is tasty, but the fried chicken rocks
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October 28, 2004
The St. Louis-cut pork ribs are coated with coarse black pepper and swathed in the aroma of smoke. The meat doesn't fall off the bone -- instead,... More >>
Dumpling Democracy When it comes to the city's best dumplings, everyone in Houston has an opinion
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October 21, 2004
The free-form dumplings at Santong Snacks in Diho Plaza look like meatballs in floppy wrappers. But the spicy pork stays tightly fitted inside... More >>
Steak and Peanut Butter Lemongrass Cafe: A hip Bellaire spot with a hit-or-miss menu
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October 14, 2004
After school, when no one else was home, I used to experiment with new peanut butter sandwich combinations. If peanut butter and bacon tasted... More >>
Cowboy Cookin' After Grady Spears's departure, The Burning Pear still smolders
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October 07, 2004
The minute we were seated at The Burning Pear, the cowboy cuisine restaurant in the Sugar Land Marriott, the breadbasket arrived. The mini corn... More >>
Lafayette's Legacy Denis' Seafood House outclasses the competition
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September 30, 2004
The crawfish bisque at Denis' Seafood House is as dark as chocolate and spicy as hell. Crawfish tails and hush-puppy dumplings hide in its... More >>
Meatball Politics Forget the Atkins and Souch Beach diets and hit the Sacred Heart Society's Thursday spaghetti lunch
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September 23, 2004
Frank Mancuso demonstrates his bib technique as we shuffle along with all the other people in line for lunch at Whitney Oaks Hall. The giant... More >>
Osso Buco Me? Osso Buco You! Our food critic gets tossed out of another restaurant
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September 16, 2004
"If you don't like it, there's the door. Pay your bill and go. And don't come back," says Alex Salmassi, the owner of Portofino Ristorante... More >>
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