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Restaurant Reviews
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Fruits of Franchising We all scream for La Paletera’s popsicles
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September 02, 2004
When the heat index goes above 106 in Houston, you can't eat a cheeseburger for lunch unless you have time for a siesta. That's why salads and... More >>
Transcendent Tacos Laredo Taqueria serves up authentic Tex-Mex -- and that's not an oxymoron
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August 26, 2004
It's breakfast time at Laredo Taqueria on Patton, and while I stand in line waiting to order, I'm watching the flour tortilla I'm about to eat... More >>
Sushi Pudding You can bank on the salmon and chili tapioca at the Hotel Icon's Bank Jean-Georges
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August 19, 2004
Shaved salmon marinated with coconut lime juice, chili tapioca and Asian pear" is an appetizer on the menu at the elegant Bank Jean-Georges in... More >>
The Pushers
Restaurants peddling bottled water need to chill
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August 19, 2004
When I ate dinner at Bank Jean-Georges with my daughter, the waiter asked if we wanted fizzy, still or "Houston" water. I asked for the Houston.... More >>
Marinara Monopoly Has Amerigo's been resting on its "best restaurant in The Woodlands" laurels too long?
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August 12, 2004
We're seated near a wall of glass that looks out onto a dense stand of pine trees. The rain has left a fog on the windows, so the greenery is... More >>
Southern-Fried Asian to Go Exploring Houston's "you buy, we fry" seafood joints
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August 05, 2004
The fried redfish fillet sends up a plume of steam when I fold it over and break it in half. It's coated with a cornmeal crust that gives every... More >>
Wild or Mild Houston's most elusive taco truck serves up hot goat grease
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July 29, 2004
The luminous orange grease tints the white bowl above the dark red broth. I unwrap the aluminum foil that contains the warm corn tortillas and... More >>
Bogotá's Best Birds Don't cook tonight! The first of a three-part series on summer takeout
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July 22, 2004
My friend calls from her cell phone. She's up in the Heights and offers to pick up dinner on her way over. That's an offer I can't refuse, since... More >>
The 19th Oasis In the restaurant-challenged Heights, Shade shimmers like an oasis
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July 15, 2004
The grouper is crusted with wasabi and decorated with cucumber slices arranged to look like fish scales. According to our waiter, this is the... More >>
Curry for the Laddies London Sizzler serves up Indian food made the British way
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July 08, 2004
The grilled chicken has lots of flavor, but the sauce is bland. In fact, the chicken tikka masala at London Sizzler Tandoori Bar & Grill tastes... More >>
African Hideaway Addisaba has an air of foreign intrigue — and awesome kifto and yedoro wot
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July 01, 2004
When we arrive at Addisaba, the new Ethiopian restaurant tucked behind Sharpstown Mall, I notice that most of the cars in the parking lot are... More >>
Food of the God Robert Del Grande continues to perform miracles at Cafe Annie
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June 24, 2004
There are two culinary-school lessons I will never forget: 1) Cold roux, hot liquid; hot roux, cold liquid; and 2) Robert Del Grande is God. My... More >>
Wine-Geek Chic La Vista caters to BYOB diners
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June 17, 2004
When I walk up to La Vista on Fountain View carrying a bottle of wine, I notice a poster in the window that says the restaurant has applied for a... More >>
Dry-Aged Discrimination What grade of beef are the steaks at The Capital Grille?
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June 10, 2004
Flames are shooting out of the high-tech stainless-steel broiler at The Capital Grille on Westheimer. And thanks to the open design of the... More >>
Ceviche Heaven This new Peruvian restaurant is serving the best seafood cocktail in town
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June 03, 2004
The red snapper in the ceviche at Pezcalato, the new Peruvian restaurant on Richmond, is so soft, I wonder if it's been ground up like hamburger... More >>
Plano Tex-Mex Mi Cocina's food may be tepid, but the margaritas are magnificent
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May 27, 2004
My companion is late, so I sit by myself drinking iced tea and eating chips on the patio of Mi Cocina on Woodway. The salsa looks and tastes like... More >>
Pacific Rim Shot
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May 20, 2004
The spongy, marshmallow-sized scallops are coated in a sauce that tastes like ketchup mixed with cornstarch and a lot of sugar. The bright red... More >>
Meat and Tomatoes Avenida Paulista Churrascaria should please carnivores and vegetarians alike
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May 13, 2004
My vegetarian lunch companion is astonished. There are 41 gorgeously decorated plates on the salad bar at Avenida Paulista Churrascaria, the new... More >>
Shrimp N' Ice Cream What to order at the Indian seafood restaurant Fish N' More
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May 06, 2004
The shrimp masala sounds good, so I order some for lunch.
"Hot or mild?" the guy behind the counter at Fish N' More asks.
"Hot!" I answer. I... More >>
Blaze of Glory Jarro Cafe's salsas are set-your-face-on-fire picante
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April 29, 2004
The interior of Jarro Cafe on Gessner is pleasantly air- conditioned. But veteran ethnic-food explorer Jay Francis (see "Ethnic Explorer," August... More >>
Fantastic Fusion Mantra's Mike Potowski seems to delight in turning culture clashes into culinary fashion statements
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April 22, 2004
Chunks of ahi tuna are seared on the outside and red and raw in the center. They're scattered along a skinny, plank-shaped cracker teetering on a... More >>
Juicy Juxtaposition Al's Quick Stop serves up Mexican and Middle Eastern foods side by side
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April 15, 2004
Igor is dousing his gyro wrap with a bright red salsa that tastes like a combination of roasted red peppers and cayenne powder. He has made... More >>
Freezer Burned The burgers at Moore’s Double Horn Grill make our food critic do a double take
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April 08, 2004
John Bebout makes a little joke in Greek, much to the delight of the Greek guy behind the counter. We order a couple of half-pound hamburgers... More >>
Baklava Bravissimo Cafe Bijan makes treats so good, somebody's grandma must've made them
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April 01, 2004
Our hostess waits patiently behind the walk-up counter while the four of us stare at the pretty pictures of kabob plates mounted on the wall... More >>
Sunnyside Sup Reid's is an awesome barbecue time capsule
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March 25, 2004
Mothballs and wood smoke are a strange combination of aromas. That's what I smell when I sit down at Reid's Barbecue restaurant down in... More >>
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From the Print Edition
The Pho-ndamentals
Here, Eat This Vietnamese cuisine has become one of Houston's favorite over the past few decades — coinciding with the large influx of Vietnamese immigrants that began following the Vietnam War… More >>
Todo con Queso
It's been more than a century since the first Tex-Mex restaurant opened in Houston. George Caldwell brought The Original Mexican Restaurant to our city in 1907, influenced — most agree… More >>
Hot to Trot
TOP 10 Since a first date is often the initial and most important impression you'll make, you want that impression to be memorable. But how do you achieve "memorable" without also… More >>
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