Restaurant Reviews

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The Missing Fish Mint The Missing Fish Mint
Nam caters to mainstream palates by keeping the flavors mild and the herbs innocuous
, August 04, 2005
Bo nuong xa, a dish of grilled lemongrass-marinated beef served with rice-paper wrappers, goes by the popular name of Vietnamese fajitas in... More >>
Squid Kids Squid Kids
Whodathunkit? A kid-friendly Italian-American restaurant with killer red sauce
, July 28, 2005
Three sautéed jumbo shrimp arrived in a pool of a creamy lemon-garlic emulsion that looked like mayonnaise. They were gently cooked so they... More >>
Brain Food Brain Food
You may puzzle over the menu at Robert Gadsby's Noé, but you'll love the clever chow
, July 21, 2005
The pile of freshly shelled lobster meat in my seafood pot-au-feu includes a perfectly intact whole claw. I dunk a chunk of lobster in the savory... More >>
Island's Best Island's Best
Clary's is Galveston's worst-kept secret
, July 14, 2005
When I glanced up from the mound of pure jumbo lump crabmeat and the complimentary bowl of boiled shrimp on our table at Clary's Seafood... More >>
Cyclone Season Cyclone Season
Two offspring of Cyclone Anaya's soon will be competing within blocks of where the original once stood
, July 07, 2005
The tortilla chips come to the table in a brown paper lunch bag at Terlingua Texas Border Cafe. Our dining companion, who arrived before us, has... More >>
Tandoori Enchiladas Tandoori Enchiladas
Indian fusion cuisine and an awesome lunch buffet are drawing crowds to Cafe Monsoon
, June 30, 2005
The Indian chicken enchilada at Cafe Monsoon on Westheimer is a crepe rolled around some curried palak (spinach) studded with chunks of tandoori... More >>
Pan-Louisiana Fusion Pan-Louisiana Fusion
Call it Cajun, Creole, zydeco or whatever you want, it's all good at Soul on the Bayeaux
, June 23, 2005
There are two television sets blaring at Soul on the Bayeaux, a homey little restaurant in the Third Ward. One set is tuned to a soap opera, the... More >>
Swinging Sardinians Swinging Sardinians
At Arcodoro, you’ll find stunning seafood dishes and a classy late-night singles scene
, June 16, 2005
The simple clam soup called sa fregula at Arcodoro Ristorante Italiano in the Galleria area says a lot about Sardinian cuisine. The... More >>
Psychedelic Peppercorns Psychedelic Peppercorns
Try a spice at Sichuan Cuisine that's been banned in the States since 1968
, June 09, 2005
A Sichuan peppercorn looks something like a clove. There's a tiny brown berry on top of four points and a stubby stem. My tablemates and I are... More >>
Ensemble Dining Ensemble Dining
Julia's Bistro is at the hottest stop on the Metro rail line
, June 02, 2005
A gleaming southbound Metro train suddenly fills the window facing Main Street and then speeds down the rails, its shrinking form visible through... More >>
Barbecue Identity Theft Barbecue Identity Theft
If it ain’t from Luling, why do they call it Luling City Market?
, May 26, 2005
At 11:45 a.m. on a Tuesday, there's a line stretching out the front door and across the porch of Luling City Market, the barbecue joint on... More >>
Thai Seas Thai Seas
Merlion in Seabrook has the best Thai seafood this side of Phuket
, May 19, 2005
Igor and I are intently eyeing the last shrimp. The succulent shellfish came tossed with avocado slices and slathered in a thick and creamy curry... More >>
Wurst-Case Scenario Wurst-Case Scenario
Alfredo's serves up excellent German sausage and a lot of conversation
, May 12, 2005
Alfredo's European Grill on Montrose near Westheimer is a BYOB restaurant. So the four of us have brought a six-pack of Spaten. We were advised... More >>
There's No Place Like Home There's No Place Like Home
Especially when you're eating at Montrose Diner, where the food's subpar and the wait's long
, May 05, 2005
If you are dissatisfied with your server, feel free to tell her or him. If your food is not right, tell the cook. If you think we have poor... More >>
Lucky Stars Lucky Stars
Test your love of Texas at Jim Goode's new cowboy saloon
, April 28, 2005
The barstools at Goode's Armadillo Palace are topped with big leather saddles. They look cushy, but my ass keeps sliding down mine, and I have to... More >>
Krupuk, Sambal and Heineken Krupuk, Sambal and Heineken
Yanti's Indonesian food takes you back to the plantation
, April 21, 2005
Leaning on the bar at Yanti's Restaurant & Bar on Dairy Ashford, I watch my buddy Jay ladle the Indonesian hot sauce called sambal olek out of a... More >>
Less Price, Less Spice Less Price, Less Spice
Two Mandola-family restaurants provide a lesson in what we're paying for when we eat out
, April 14, 2005
"What?" I repeated loudly as my dining companion and I leaned over the table, struggling to hear each other. I'd made the mistake of asking her... More >>
Philly on Scott Philly on Scott
South Philly Steaks is doing a damn fine job with the iconic Pennsylvania sandwich
, April 07, 2005
The sandwich maker at South Philly Steaks, a new shop at Scott and Alabama, was a big black guy wearing a do-rag. The griddle where he was frying... More >>
The Seoul of Sharpstown The Seoul of Sharpstown
Broaden your horizons at Houston's most eclectic Korean eatery
, March 31, 2005
Yao Ming is getting unfairly bashed by the mainstream media, according to the sportswriter at Saigon Tex News, Houston's Bilingual Vietnamese... More >>
My Favorite Restaurant My Favorite Restaurant
If you like smoky, eccentric eateries, you'll love Segari's
, March 24, 2005
"What's your favorite restaurant?" is the second question I get when I meet someone at a party, after they ask me what I do. I generally... More >>
Thai High Thai High
Do you want your dinner "bong-hit hot" or "acid-flashback hot"?
, March 17, 2005
We're sitting in the alfresco dining area alongside Thai Sticks restaurant, looking out over Montrose Boulevard. In front of us, there's a gently... More >>
Fire-Breathing Burgers Fire-Breathing Burgers
Exotic meat dishes are tops at Himalaya
, March 10, 2005
"The vegetables aren't that good today; get the meat," chef Lashkari of Himalaya Restaurant tells me. The decor of the restaurant doesn't inspire... More >>
The Silver Tower Meets The Shining The Silver Tower Meets The Shining
Liberté, égalité and fraternité in a log cabin on White Oak Bayou
, March 03, 2005
The three of us were seated at a table overlooking part of the first floor roof at La Tour d'Argent on Ella. Four or five raccoons were eating... More >>
It's Le Bombe It's Le Bombe
A new restaurant has Republican bigwigs dancing on the grave of the French boycott
, February 24, 2005
The bombe d'avocat au crabe at Bistro Moderne is a dome of creamy avocado puree formed around a core of tomato, lump crabmeat and cilantro salsa... More >>
Wine Geek Chic Wine Geek Chic
Which wine will you be serving at your Oscar party?
, February 24, 2005
Sideways, the sleeper hit movie about love among California wine geeks, seems to be changing America's taste in wine. Nominated for five Oscars... More >>
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